A Day in Buenos Aires
March 18, 2018
A typical morning in Buenos Aires, for me anyway, will usually begin with a stop at the fruit stand…but, as the morning moves along, the stop for a cafecito is the plan. As I think of it, when I am in the United States, it is customary to grab a coffee on the run. When I am overseas, who ever heard of such a thing? What???? Coffee is the destination – it is an event in and of itself! Whether with a friend or solo, “IT” is a moment to be cherished, and something I have come to embrace….
Thus, many a morning for me in BA, begins with my coffee. This shop, Piazza** is located right across the park/monument area from the National Congress building. When not heading in the direction of ‘La Biela’, Piazza is usually a stop for me – especially on a day of roaming. It provides a great view of the area, an excellent place for people watching, and always the mental and spiritual room to reflect.
This morning, I came across a quote by Carlos Gavito: “nobody can teach you the feeling…”…and it resonated with me… It brought to mind so many of the things that we learn and do and mimic but never really get to fully embrace the natural feeling of because we get stuck in the surface of the perfunctory….
Whether it is through our striving for spirituality, religiosity, seeking the understanding of life’s questions…or simply trying to understand a language, art, music, a dance…or even travel…we attempt…but, can we feel it…and while we study and attempt to learn…nobody can teach us what to feel…for even with the same impetus, each of us may feel the same or something completely different…thus, a different expression in response comes out…
And, as I pondered and daydreamed on this mental journey, I saw this couple sitting in front of me. First the newspaper, so many things are digital these days, it always catches my eye to actually see someone reading a physical newspaper. But, the hand-holding, the gentleness, the tender expressions, their spiritual embrace that could actually be seen…what path did they travel to get to this point…was it just rainbow’s and bunnies? (doubt it)…was their joy, pain, forgiveness, mutual interest….were periods of lesser happiness given up to experience a greater happiness…yes, quite the pondering this morning….
This awareness has be looking back on my own life and reflecting on all the things and the events that transpired in a particular way that now has me sitting in an outdoor café, in Buenos Aires across from the national congress building on an absolutely lovely day soaking in the culture of international fare….pushing the internal doors that open to realize the superficiality of some of my own previous understandings….never-the-less, as the day moves on…I settle up…go inside, down the stairs to the bathroom to get ready to begin my walk… and lo and behold:
sooooooooooooo……..all of that deep reflective thoughtfulness, soul searching, and deliberative attempts at increased awareness…well…PAUSE!!!!
I admit, that when I was younger, I had very little appreciation for art…Now…well…I absolutely love it…for many many reasons. Somewhere in this world…there is a reason for this particular piece of art…there was a motivation, and intent, a purpose…if you look at the not so subtle and the very subtle details…there is so much coming out of this piece…and personally, I appreciate all of it…however, even my own eclectic nature has its limitations…I will have to appreciate this piece as a part of my memory…not as my current focus…hahaha…I will leave that to you…enjoy…whew….yes, you can thank me later…ok, back to me…
While I am not a Porteno, and don’t pretend to be one…I also do not feel like the regular tourist…more like a very comfortable foreigner. When I come, people who work in various places or who stay nearby…give me greetings when they see me…they remember me…and admittedly that feels nice…especially in a place such as this….Buenos Aires is full of the ornate…however, it is the simplicity that is the most amazing to me…especially its relationship to the ornate…
It is amazing to me, how some of the coffee shops are just simple little places, and others carry the history of a museum. Except, in fact, that the coffee shop is the substance of the museum. Take for instance, Cafe de Angelitos on Rivadavia:
This absolutely beautiful place – people – This is a coffee shop!! Of course it has more than that, but yes…coffee…and walking by looking in the window…seeing the engagements, the sophistication, the culture…yes, coffee is an event!! 🙂
As the morning moves along, Buenos Aires is a wonderful place to be when you have absolutely no plans whatsoever…just roam…the architecture:
If you time it right and are fortunate, you might just happen upon ‘una feria’ a street fair with some amazing items at amazing prices:
And, I have to mention one of my favorite areas…a very long avenue, very wide, full of history, energy, life…any ideas? 🙂
There are many places in this area where I spend significantly good time…while it may not be a mountain top, a brook, a beach, a temple, or one of the many sites that traditionally are talked about as being one of the great views or experiences of the world…in fact, move beyond the perfunctory…and it can be similar to those things…
To see people…what can be seen….and…
there is a meaning, like art though, we have our interpretations…that belong to ourselves…our feelings….now….this couple:
I watched them for a bit…what is it…what are they doing…how did they get there…what did it take to get there….in actuality, they were quite captivating…talk about a spiritual embrace that made them stand apart…to the degree that as busy as this avenue can be….what seemed so simple about them, actually carries the answers to many an unanswered question…
Plenty of Art to be seen in the dynamic and captured moments of people, but if you are also interested in the more traditional type…then keep walking…you may come upon the National Museum of Beautiful Arts:
Traditionally captivating…many excellent pieces…the type of place where you can easily spend the entire day…look for the section that specifically focuses in on the history of the development of Buenos Aires and Argentina…it is more than worth the time…
To add, after a long day of strolling, observing, pondering….even better if you have a small earphone with some of the classics playing….you may come across another of the simply sophisticated wonders of Buenos Aires – Cafe Los Violetas:
Yes, a cafe…are you starting to get the point about the cafe’s – SMILE!!!!
Like many other places, it isn’t possible to get the feeling of Buenos Aires from one trip…it is possible to become aware of the feeling…but, to understand it requires a guide. Not, the tourist guide, but the guide. Whether you are into Tango or not, there is this confluence that takes place that the term fusion doesn’t necessarily highlight the nuances that exist. But, attach with the Portenos, and you will understand…you may end up at a place such as ‘La Hormiga’ or ‘La Catedral: Social and Cultural Club’:
You might also find yourself, watching blues dancing, or listening to a contemporary band that has an orchestra nuevo type of feel:
Either way, you will give the standing ovation…and let me tell you something…this young lady…whatever stereotype her appearance may manifest, she is indeed a young Billy Holiday in Buenos Aires (I have the video to prove it) 🙂
As the evening closes out…you may still have the energy to keep going…maybe you will end up at Salon Canning, Gricel, Obelisco, or the Temple (El Beso)…but, maybe, just maybe….you may find a gem in San Telmo or La Boca…or….you may even find a surprise, along with a live Tango band, in ‘La Viruta’:
I don’t pretend to know everything about Buenos Aires, in fact, I am simply sharing my experiences in that they may help someone else who is on a type of journey. I started out further exploring my international interests, and that merged with an interest regarding Tango. This interest in Tango inspired me to knock on the door of the cultural impetus of Tango…and more and more doors continue to open…to the degree that as these doors get explored…more and more friendships in all walks of life from all over the world continue to develop….and I’m referring to actual friendships…not ‘status-ships’….if you can tell, these explorations into the external create opportunities to better understand the internal…and vice-versa….something way beyond the perfunctory and reflective of the feel…I look forward to returning soon…in the mean time…
While these trips to Buenos Aires somewhat started as an exploration of Tango, the dance, all of these other experiences accumulated in my mind because as my friend Beatriz Dujovne (In Strangers’ Arms) writes,
“A fully lived Tango is all about the exaltation of a human connection at the primitive level of our senses, movements, and reflexes. It sublimates our basest instincts, which actually interfere with dancing, and draws out our memories, histories, sentiments…”
Fully lived? Sublimates?….mannnnn…..puhlease…..we aren’t just talking about a dance…however, as I explore what fully lived actually means, as I better manage my ‘ensimismamiento’…and I move into its realization…maybe I will eventually learn how to dance Tango….
smiling….
Amigos, Hasta Pronto!!!!
Tango: More than just a Dance!!
September 5, 2016
As you can probably tell, I am not posting on my blog in real time these days. My trips, as a result of a number of reasons, have really evolved into being more a personal pilgrimage – a journey within myself to identify further my person…and to use these experiences to further evolve myself, with intention…. some may call it utilizing self-creation as a tool. In truth, as I take my time…I rather enjoy it. It allows me to re-live the joy of the experience over again long after I am gone. So even as I write this, I experience the feeling of wonder and peace as if I am there with my new friends right now!!
As I have mentioned, while I am chronicling my journey…this isn’t a Tango blog. I am nowhere near developed enough to create that…nor is that my interest of intention. There are plenty of those out on the web both horrible and disrespectful to women and men and reflect a complete ignorance of the deeper aspects of what Tango is and what is means!! Oh, we can take classes…learn the steps…that isn’t it!!
At the end of my last post I said, “Tango isn’t just a dance”…it isn’t just a bunch of steps…it isn’t just a walk, a giro (turn), an ocho, a gaucho, a hook, a sacada…or whatever…it definitely isn’t simply the ego…when Alejandro introduced me…they treated me like family…so, Tango is much more than a dance…I met people who go to Milongas simply to listen to music and see and talk to their friends…to be a part of their community…even when they talk about each other or fuss about each other…they show that they are family…oh, one of the most beautiful expressions…not styles…but expressions of humanity I have seen…
And so, each time I have gone to Buenos Aires…. We sit and eat…and that…means an abundance of things…similar to the Tango community that April Parker and Angel Montero (yes, have to give a shout out to my peeps 🙂 create around themselves in Atlanta…after class we head to Felinni’s…love the class and dance…but the social part…they don’t forget…which makes you want to be a part of what is taking place…and, another point…Felinni’s Pizza is SICK…whew…SO GOOD….
So again, just prior to the end of my trip…Alejandro Gee and Erzsebet Tamas invited a mix of friends over for dinner…and, I will say…so that I could have more friends also…and I could join the pack 🙂 and now I am fully vested…
A mix of people from around the world….left to right, Rachel, Patrick, Alejandro (that man can cook), Erzsebet, Leroy, Yumiko, and Jane…talk about a wonderful time and conversation…actually, quite hilarious…Leroy is pure energy and fun…who would of known I would meet a retired fire-fighter from Chicago at the Tango House of Alejandro Gee in Buenos Aires…not to mention the unique stories of everyone else around the table..stories of Great Britain, California, Buenos Aires, Eastern Europe, Tango Champions….and much much more…and, I’ll leave the adult conversation within the context of what is talked about in House Tango…stays in House Tango 🙂
You can see the pictures…but, can you feel them. Ahh…a Tango question…you can see it, hear it…you know where you are…but, can you feel it in your core…we are having such a good time….
No steps, no patterns, no posturing…but, you are looking at Tango…as I walk my pilgrimage finding my way…thank you to all my new friends for touching my life and helping me to see what I have on the inside…helping me to be my own Alchemist…and Yes, Erzsebet…my chakras are improving….
Hasta Pronto…Mi Amigos…
Confiteria Ideal and Obelisco Tango
September 5, 2016
Although my primary emphasis is to expand the depth of my pilgrimage, learn the city, absorb the culture, figure out Tango, there are certain things that must be experienced…not just as a tourist…but, to acquire the feeling so that you can learn to understand it. Thus, Confiteria Ideal and Obelisco Tango becomes a must. First,
Confiteria Ideal!! An amazingly historical place in the history of Tango and Buenos Aires…to the degree that the BBC did a specific special on it. There are regular rumors that this place will be closing down. So, I wanted to make sure I had the opportunity to visit, absorb, check it out…and get a dance in 🙂 Now, as I mentioned, I am on a journey of sorts. I make no projections that I am a milonguero, Tango expert or anything near those levels. As my friend April Parker says, I’m just a Tango baby…and I’m trying to find my way 🙂
One of the things I find so interesting about this place, is that locals will show up during lunch hour or whenever they have a break or when they just want to dance throughout the day. And so, even in the early afternoon, you will find regulars here as well as entranjeros (foreigners) enjoying their Tango.
This place is absolutely beautiful. You can order food and drinks…whatever your palate desires and get your dance on. Now, I am going to be forthright…being a Tango baby…it can be rather horrifying to come to a place such as this, or El Beso, Gricel, Obelisco, and Salon Canning when you are learning to dance. You may see people that look like they could use a walker, but when they hit the floor and the music comes on…they move with the grace of a Gazelle or Ballet dancer…and here I am…feeling as if I am fumbling around. But, eventually I engaged in the Cabaceo…and started dancing. And, it was such a wonderful feeling to overcome that fear and dance in Confiteria Ideal!! And, at the end of my dance…La Senorita said to me, “Senor, tu caminata is muy bueno”…ha ha ha ha…man…talk about walking on cloud 9!!!! It was all I could do to keep from running back at that moment to Alejandro Gee and Erzsebet Tamas and yell…I did it…I did it…talk about taking an internal pilgrimage and learning about yourself…ahhh…so good!!!! 🙂
Confiteria Ideal is a landmark in and of itself, but has many collectors items within giving testament to the history of Tango.
And, of course…there must be tributes in place to the historically amazing Carlos Gardel…
Needless to say, that when I walked out of there, my feet were not even touching the ground. There are a great many things to be said about facing your fears…which begs the question…are you growing as a person, are you really on an internal pilgrimage if you have not faced your fears. As Pema Chodron would ask, “have you faced the snake…have you faced your greatest fears…and made peace with them” …then you grow… if not…then your are not…
Walking outside, I love to see the markers for some of the basic Tango steps…it is in the life blood of the city…whether many Argentinians respect their historical Tango or not….
Later on that day….while I was still on Cloud 9, I get back to Alejandro’s Tango House. Alejandro says to me, “aren’t you coming out with us tonight”…sometimes I was tired, sometimes admittedly I was a bit unsure of myself – only a few people I know want to intentionally look like an ass 🙂 Ha Ha…but, yes they are out there…not something I would do on purpose 🙂 In this case, I was on my cloud and said, “sure, why not…thank you.”
So, this evening I met Alejandro Gee and Erzsebet Tamas at Club Obelisco Tango.
And for those that are curious and for entertainments sake, here is a posting of some rules and some Tango art 🙂
As we arrive and I sit at Alejandro’s table. And, it is common that the regulars have their own reserved table. So, I sit with Alejandro…a few of his friends are there and more are arriving until we eventually have about eight (8) people at his table. Now, admittedly my Spanish is limited…although it is significantly improving 🙂 All of these gentlemen are older…as I talk with Alejandro…some of them have been dancing together over 60 years. Of course, me…I am a Tango baby I’m not fawning or flopping all over the place. I don’t know much of anything about Tango…I’m learning…All I know is..it isn’t the typical club scene..people are sipping a little…maybe some Champagne, wine, a taste of liquor here and there…and empanada or such and some water…and although I’m learning Spanish…they are still talking to me…and I’m talking to them…like we are all understanding each other….I watch them dance, I dance a little (YES YES) ha ha…and I am having such an awesome time… that I ask for a picture to be taken…talk about some of the coolest people…sitting there with them I learned so much about Tango that isn’t really taught…and so, I got this wonderful photo of us:
Going left to right is: El Flaco Dany, Tango Alejandro Gee (my friend that I stay with at his Tango house), Osvaldo Centeno (kind gentleman that gets me back and forth to the airport), Tito Rocca (am amazing Tango singer), Ricardo Luis Gallo (el pollo; what a fun man), Cacho Latronico, and Tito Franquelo. Just absolutely fun and amazing people…
We get through the night….one of my best nights ever…walk outside and I’m just taking in the night air..and snap this photo…you to take at least one picture of Che Guevara…if you don’t…especially if you are from the U.S., then you probably really need to see somebody professional 🙂 It’s not the best picture..but, it is Che…
So, it’s been a long day…and a long night…I get back to Alejandro’s…do a bit of reading and post the picture I got with the Milonguero’s….now I don’t know much…I’m still learning…but, in the morning when I look at my facebook page…I see a note from my friend and instructor in Atlanta (April Parker ) that says and I quote:
“LOOK AT THAT Malik Watkins!!!! Holy mother Mary of ****, you’re hanging out with the Tango Gods! Dany El Flaco FTW!!!!”
So, then people start asking me…how did you get to sit with them…I’m like…ehhh…with who…I don’t know…I am Alejandro’s friend…so I just followed him like he…uhh…said… Well, now that I’ve done more reading…and am learning the history of Tango…it would be similar to a foreigner coming to the United States and following a friend…and you join your friend at a table with George Clooney, Matt Damon, Brad Pitt and etc….and, these Milongueros were so accepting….so cool…and never treated me like the clueless Americano…which I certainly was…I learned so much about Tango that evening….it isn’t just the dance….Thank You so much to the Milongueros that evening, they treated me like family…and I felt a part of a family….and nothing but Love to Alejandro and Erzsebet….and you too April Parker (funny lady)….
Buenas Noches!!
Another Day in walking Buenos Aires – Carlos Gardel
September 5, 2016
Two of the things I love most about each day. First, is my Tango lesson with Alejandro Gee and Erzsebet Tamas; Second, my daily walk around the city. Public transportation is there if I really need to get somewhere, but oh how I love to just walk, feel, smell, taste, and experience each thing of each day here 🙂
Today I go off into a different direction. One thing for sure in BA, Argentinians love their dogs/pets and they are everywhere…watch your step bubba 🙂 They love them to the point as in many larger cities, there are people whose profession is to walk dogs – I ain’t mad cha!! But, how many dogs can a person walk at one time. Obviously, I would have gotten that Jeopardy Question wrong. But, I do have to ask…now where are the pooper scoopers?:
Never-the-less, everyone looks at peace…so, I’m gonna be peaceful with them…besides…look at this common view:
Can you see it? Can you feel it? Yes, old world architecture with the appropriate breaks with balance…but, if you sit there and reflect on the history of Buenos Aires, of Argentina, of the socio-economic dynamics both historical and contemporary and its relation to Tango…what do you feel on the inside? 🙂 ahhh….gotta love it…
And, while I do love street scapes such as this…the people, the families, the youngsters, this kids…bring it to life…
Kid on a skate-board riding the rail…okay, it’s a great picture..thanks for the compliment 🙂
This day, I headed out without a plan…just to roam, and feel and reflect…and just by chance I came upon another wonderful gem. The CG on the building…stands for Carlos Gardel – this is one of his original homes:
For many, Carlos Gardel stands as the most prominent person in the exquisite history of Tango…in short…his life is the quintessential exemplar of Tango. What a wonderful surprise to come upon his home/museum. I won’t write a long essay on him, if you don’t know who he is you can always look him up. For those that know, then you can imagine the emotional response associated with this aspect of my internal journey….nothing but love…
More inside the home/museum of Carlos Gardel…where he spent his time composing, writing…so interesting…
adasdf
As with many of the great ones, Carlos Gardel met death in an untimely manner. It is said that Carlos Gardel died in a manner befitting him….in that “without knowing pain or agony, as he deserved, as he created songs that poured balm on the lives of others…
If you know Tango, then you can imagine the feeling of spending time in his home reading about his life. If you don’t, then compassion can guide you to that place. What an amazing experience, and my own reaction to this experience…will just keep adding to the depth of my own compassion…
Continuing on my stroll…always on the look out for what is to be really seen…I love to see people from all the variations of life…and to refer back to what I have read, what I am learning…and ask myself…what is that human story…how did they get to this place…oh, it’s beautiful…
Oh, to see…to feel….to sit and become a part…yes, my feet hurt 🙂 my legs are tired…even a bit frustrated trying to build the muscle memory and mental awareness to dance my Tango…it isn’t always easy going through the process of finding your way….then again, that’s what makes it sweet…especially when you can sit…and like a seed, allow yourself to grow…
Indeed, there are some things that really just catch your eye. Now, in all truth, I can’t even tell you what exactly this building is…but, sometimes you don’t have to know in order to acknowledge the time, effort, skill, diligence and mastery that screams from something that has been created:
Another long day…another absolutely amazing day…my mind is over-flowing with what I have learned…so walking helps me to process everything and place it in a context to be used for present and future growth…and as the sun goes down…I love this part of Buenos Aires as well…the views at night, the flow of people, the change in how something looks from day to night…being a night creature…maybe you understand what I am saying…things can be just as beautiful even when they have a cover on:
Definitely will be checking out the theater on my next visit. 🙂 Walking back to rest, come across a beautiful view. A program being held to support those with personal problems such as Alcohol use and other maladies…amen to that!!!! It is beautiful to see people not just focusing on condemning other people, but trying to do something to help them. That, in and of itself, is beauty…
And so, another day…another night…another period of growth…a pilgrimage may look one way on the outside…but, trust this…that isn’t what is really taking place on the inside…if you are making progress. And, as the evening comes to a close:
I love me some Buenos Aires….Buenas Noches!!
Me Gusta Pasear en Buenos Aires
September 5, 2016
Call it a rhythm…call it routine occurrences…but, so many things can be categorized within the cycles of life. It seems that, of late, I am continually touching on a cycle in life that places information on ‘pilgrimages’ into my mind. Pilgrimages of the type – Camino de Santiago (The Way of St. James); The Hajj (Islamic Pilgrimage to Mecca); or, even the Mount Kalaish Pilgrimage in Tibet (Buddhist and Hindu). On the surface, the associated discussion is treats the pilgrimage as a component of a person’s faith…. a journey that symbolizes devotion. And, while this may be offensive to some – no apologies in advance – herein resides a problem.
It should be much more than a simple act of devotion, it should really comprise an opportunity to identify, explore and realize what exactly resides within ourselves. That is why I get a lot more out of discussions on pilgrimages that are fashioned after Paulo Coehlo’s El Alquimista (The Alchemist). The journey…the pilgrimage within…is indeed…the most fascinating…how we respond to our walk…to our pilgrimages…is the clearest illustration for us…on what resides within…
When I read back through this blog, I become fascinated over and over again at the opportunities I have had to see the world….in many ways…all of those experiences represents my own pilgrimage. Not a pilgrimage to just see one thing or to take one walk…but, the pilgrimage of many places, of many things…and of many walks.
Of course, this part of my pilgrimage includes a great deal regarding Tango. It is amazing to read a book such as ‘The Quest for the Embrace: The History of Tango Dance 1800-19830’ by Benzery Saba…and then walk the streets of Buenos Aires.
One part that screams volumes to me is the discussion with renowned milonguero – Carlos Gavito,
“when I learned, around the 60s, there weren’t so many names. Tango was very individual, very personal. Everyone had his own different style of dancing…that’s why for me, there are no tango styles…the style is the person. Milonguero style, for example, doesn’t exist; the milonguero exists, the one who’s dancing. I spent the greater part of my life at the milongas and I dance Gavito.”
Ahhh….so beautifully said!! Now, as I’ve said before…I don’t pretend to be a Tango master…I’m clearly a Tango baby…that is looking to find the way…but, I do see how so many camps exist and have always existed…and it really resonates with me…to not just focus on the style…but recognize it as an expression of that person….and that is alright with me. And so, as I take my trips to Argentina, and walk the streets of Buenos Aires…I am looking to find my way…my way…my journey…my pilgrimage inside of myself manifested by what I see and feel in the environment. And, having arrived…here I go… 🙂
Oh how I do love the feel of the old city…without going into the implications of various types of city planning…the intimacy of the feel, the architecture, the variations in people walking down the street, how close everything appears. I do love the opportunity to visit a place more than once so you actually get to know it…it becomes a part of you. The familiarity helps to build the expectation of comfort even in a place where you are just learning the language and the culture.
Such an absolutely beautiful day…to get out of the car…and to just walk amongst people…to observe life and its various expressions…
To see the children play and learn proper soccer technique…to hear the sound of joy coming from them with the chatter. Interesting how many places I’ve been are much better than the United States in soccer…with all the technological advances, these other countries always seem to come out on top…even without the riches. That screams many things…for those on the inner pilgrimage.
And, ohhhh, this building always speaks to me: Palacio del Congreso Nacional Argentino….always one of my first stops…just to sit and look. It always makes a trip better for me to read about a place, then to go see it for myself. In this case…the interplay between how social and political dynamics impacted Tango, and vice-versa 🙂 Amazing to travel and to become a part of it, to the extent that you can actually feel it!!
I must say, it is also beautiful and common to see Argentinians express their social and political views…right at the gate of the Congress building…it isn’t just a unique United States trait…every visit and practically every day you see someone expressing themselves in the local political process – protecting the animals from cruelty, and also protesting President Obama’s visit in this case:
Getting to know a place, its expressions and how you respond to it…one of the tasks of the pilgrim 🙂 So, as I walk…behold…all you Tangueros…
The National Academy of Tango…and a plaque for Carlos Gardel…for those in the know…he is the Humphrey Bogart, among others in South America…and in many ways…exposed the world to Tango.
What a surprise of a gem. Now of course everyone in Buenos Aires doesn’t revel in the history of Tango, but it is beautiful to see those who do celebrate such a rich contribution to world culture (more on him Carlos Gardel later).
Ahh…so wonderful to be back in Buenos Aires. So after a long walk, it’s a walking city which is a much better way to get to know it, I come upon such beautiful places. Many people visit these places. But, I am visiting less for the tourist aspect and more to get a feel for the cultural expression to add to the quality of my internal journey.
I love how they light the city at night…colors and contrast combined with the context and structure…is really a powerfully beautiful yet subtle statement…almost sounds like a wine tasters description of a good vintage 🙂 The Pink House, the parks, those old structures…many a night…I just sat in solitude…with my thoughts…revisiting history, but also developing an awareness of my own feelings…no distractions…just me and my BA 🙂
After a long walk, heading back to Alejandro’s….I stop at my favorite Parilla (which he always teases me about) 🙂 To get some of the famous Argentinian grilled meat…they remember me from last time so it’s my personal version of the show ‘Cheers’ in Buenos Aires…and look, my old buddy sits with me while I enjoy one of my favorite dishes….cats are something else; mi amigo el gato 🙂
Finishing up this day, long flight…long walk…good emotions from seeing my friends Alejandro Gee and Erzsebet Tamas….one last thing…
Helado!!!!!! Ahhhhhh!!!!!! 🙂 This in and of itself is worth it…absolutely delicious…texture…taste…context…I have to admit…walking into an ice cream shop to order so that you can practice your Spanish…that is pretty close to priceless…a nice slow walk to enjoy my Helado, then to sleep…Tango practice starts tomorrow….Buenos Noches Mi Amigos!!
Feeling at home in Congreso – Buenos Aires
July 23, 2016
It is obvious from my previous posts that while I am here attempting to immerse myself into modes that allow me to absorb Argentine (BA), I am also studying Tango…as far as I am concerned – the dance of dances. Not just by traveling and being a tourist, but by studying the history, keeping up to date on politics, attempting to understand the context of federal and local government, attempting to become versed in local language and customs…and obviously the language – which is not the easiest thing to do at this age. But, it isn’t always easy to reprogram your mind…and if you are going to do it…then language is a sure way of doing just that!! Staying away from the simplicity of the big hotels and areas that seem to be nothing more than a projection of American or Western Culture – Yes, they have McDonald’s…but, not for the kid…
My return was wonderful for many reasons, but again…it’s not just about the place…it’s about the people. So, I was so glad to see my new friends again…Alejandro Gee and Erzsebet Tamas…my Buenos Aires Hosts with the Mosts!!!! 🙂 Now, I so enjoyed a hug and kiss with Osvaldo (it’s an Argentine thing, you may not understand), but to see these two again brought a feeling of peace that comes when you recognize that you have found a good place to help you continue your journey in life:
Just like Santiago in the book by Paulo Coehlo, “The Alchemist”, sometimes you don’t know where you will find your treasure. I had made a decision that I was going to go the Buenos Aires, so I simply started doing research on the internet…came across several opportunities on Trip Advisor…and started emailing various people. Several conversations were started before I first came to BA, and based on those conversations I went with Alejandro and Erzsebet. To be sure, I took lesson from a few people when I first got there…but Alejandra and Erzsebet they had the stuff I was looking for…now this wasn’t a suit, a hat, some shoes, fancy moves and a rose in the mouth…This was and is more like Tango boot camp… 🙂 Not for the show..but for the SELF…to borrow a line from Christine Denniston, “The Meaning of TANGO: the story of the Argentinian Dance”,…and I am paraphrasing,
one old milonguero walked up to another asked him, “how is your tango coming”…the other milonguero said to him, “after 40 years, I think I am finally getting my walk together.” Oh, how I love that sequence of conversation….as in many ways, that is the dance…it isn’t something that comes together after a few lessons…it’s more of a life time. They teach out of Alejandro’s Tango House:
An absolutely amazing place, excellent accommodations and location…full of culture, great proximity, and place of which you can personally attach. And, Alejandro laughs when I say it is right across the street from my favorite Parilla!! 🙂 These two have been absolutely amazing…telling me where to go, how to get my business done, making my stay comfortable, talking with me about Argentine (BA) culture..and many other wonderful things..not to mention introducing me to El Beso, Salon Canning, Gricel, La Confiteria Ideal…and many wonderful people at the milonga’s and other places around the city….not to mention kicking my culo good every day to make sure I remembered my lessons 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂 whew…between that and all the walking to feel the barrio…I was a sore old man 🙂
But, let me be clear. I don’t pretend to be an expert on Buenos Aires or Tango. As my friend April Parker and Angel Montero (Atlanta Tango) so appropriately calls it…I know I am a Tango baby…and proud of it!! To be clear…
This is not a Tango blog…I am simply writing about my own journey in life…there are plenty of blogs in the internet universe that cover the Tango Journey and experiences….some of them are excellent…and some are written by individuals who are complete ‘BOLUDOs’….check out my Lunfardo 🙂 This isn’t a commentary on styles…old or new…or those from different parts of the world or even the Rio de la Plata Region (Argentina and Uruguay)…often times the evolution of the different expressions are clearly evident. Either way, I am simply referring to my own journey…seeking my own voice and expression culminating from making peace with my own emotions and spiritual journey. Thus, while I am walking along on my own journey, I’ll only talk about bits and piece’s for now…sometimes if you want to know what something smells, tastes or feels like…you have to do it yourself 🙂 So, on this walk in my current experience and through time…I’ll talk about a few things…but, the best part of it… in me…is yet to come…in the mean time…I’m so grateful to my friends in Argentina…those I have now…those I am getting to know…and those yet to come – so glad we found each other!! By the way, I absolutely love the Malbec!!!! 🙂 🙂
“Arrepentida (Repent)” – Back to Buenos Aires
April 12, 2016
So, to borrow from my ‘main man’ – Donny Hathaway – “I’ve been so many places in my life and times…I’ve song a lot of songs, made some bad lines…I’ve acted out my life in stages…with so many people watching…but, here I am, and I am singing this song to you….”…of course I am paraphrasing :), and the expression of songs comes in so many forms…but, hopefully you get my drift.
If you know me personally or have read my blogs, then you know that I have documented many of journeys here…and some I have not, but maybe one day. Some of these travels have come with work, some from family, and others – well, there are always other impetuses!! Being a distinct Anthony Bourdain groupie, my first two steps when preparing for a trip tends to be Mr. Bourdain, and also a historical source that can give me the context of the past, contemporary, and future that I am about to enter.
While recently I was in Argentina in October (2015), that journey had only just begun. And, so now I return and the journey continues. Instead of following Mr. Bourdain, I am taking a different route. This is less about sights, although some relevant ones will be included, food or just the overall experience. This is more about my personal journey into some of that and my own personal depths. At this point, I’ve been around long enough to experience intense joy…and intense pain…successes and mistakes…like many of us, our canvass of life is painted with all of that, plus what we want to see, be and experience. Through the planning and embracing, I have been reading Pema Chodron…so relevant to this trip.
“embarking on the spiritual journey is like getting into a very small boat and setting out on the ocean to sear for unknown lands…Pema Chodron…
Some equate the spirit and the soul as being close enough to be the same. Let’s not go with semantics…the best definition of the soul I have ever heard was given by Maya Angelou – she said, the SPIRIT…is the longing…I will leave that as that…place in your own context, and ask, what do you long for? And, so I set off….
(view of a ship coming out of the port in Buenos Aires, Argentina)
Out of all my travels, this has been the first time I’ve posted on my blog so far after the trip. For me, my trips are less about just seeing things, and more about pushing my internal dynamics – all of them – so that I can add the world and all its intricacies into the composition and flavor of the dish of self I am making…hopefully, you know that I didn’t travel on this container ship…but, thought is represented something hugely symbolic.
As we travel and experience life, we see horizons…the separations. Oh, it is much easier to breath above the separate…where we are all familiar with. But, as we travel and experience new things, feelings, experiences, people, emotions, history, and all the things that come with humanity…what about the horizon. Can we breath and learn to live underneath the horizon? That makes the difference between and person who see’s something, but can’t see it;…who hears something, but can’t hear it;…who experiences something, but can’t feel it!! That’s why there are those that grow up around significance, yet it escapes them. And, there are those that grow up around that others perceive as having no significance, yet they see, hear, feel and experience the world around them.
This may be considered as a bit deep by some for a travel blog, and others may find it more than appropriate. The latter are those that understand the significance of breathing underneath the horizon.
More to come…
Tango – Buenos Aires, Argentina
November 6, 2015
I ended the first blog posting with a picture of the ‘Thinking Man’ with the National Congress building in the background. This trip isn’t singularly for the tourist experience – in fact, I tend not to be interested in those types of trips (although they do have their purpose). I much rather prefer immersion in place of the perfunctory.
One day, I may put together a post that compares aspects of the many cultures I have experienced; but, for now, this is a singular focus on a particular cultural aspect of Buenos Aires. Often times when exploring cultures, it is necessary to spread yourself across multiple venues and seek to experience the many aspects and nuances of what a country has to offer. This trip is unique in that much of the historical development of Buenos Aires can be identified by delving into a singular aspect of their social network – The Tango (more on that later). One unique aspect of Tango is that it is the major point of confluence for history, socio-economics, immigration, music, cultural expressions, socialization, politics, and many other cultural components that illustrate the development of Argentinian society. Because it is a point of historical and contemporary confluence, Tango, it holds the key to developing much deeper insight into the nature of people.
And so, where I usually follow the Anthony Bourdain trail when traveling internationally, this time I am following I am seeking to develop a greater more in-depth understanding of this dance that is loved in so many parts of the world. It would be easy enough to just take the classes throughout the United States and develop some proficiency. However, that isn’t enough for me….I don’t want to just know it…I want to feel its base. On a side note, it is interesting how we can come across individuals who are experts in community development, but are uncomfortable and inexperienced in the practical reality and sub-culture of the communities they claim to be the subject of their expertise. Consequently, I am forced to dig deeper to develop more of a connection to the base of this amazing cultural phenomenon.
So, to maximize this experience, I researched various venues to stay while on location. I didn’t want the usual hotel or to simply reside in the tourist district. I wanted an authentic Argentinian abode to begin my immersion. Thus, I found two amazing individuals: Professores Alejandro Gee and Erzsebet Tamas (joujou).
These are two absolutely amazing individuals that provided excellent instruction, accommodations, and an exceptional immersion into Argentinian and Tango culture. They asked me what I wanted to focus on and then commenced to instructing and drilling me on the basic fundamentals. I must say it was very intense….even brought out the old mans arthritis 🙂 If you are really interested in delving deep into what makes Tango the Tango…they are an excellent source of direction.
Alejandro also provides living accommodations in his studio. This studio is an absolutely beautiful place – full of Character. This is what his dance studio looks like:
Amazing!! On the walls are pictures of a lot of the Tango Greats from the Golden Age…that really adds a sense of mystic. In many ways, it brings forward the greatness of the Golden Age era into our contemporary times and allows us to feed and grow from the richness of the past.
This is a view of the area walking into the studio – love the nuances in the design!! Just says so much about what you can feel from older style architecture….it brings it forward:
Now who can not appreciate this type of stained glass inside lining the hallway. There are certain feelings and experiences that are better presented without words…just look and feel it…
Italian marble winding staircase with more stained glass. Climbing or descending these steps really gives you an understanding about what a ‘sense of permanence really means.’ You don’t carelessly walk these steps. Best grab the handrail…if you slip and fall, there is no forgiveness coming from this floor. But, they are nice to walk slow on…you can feel the permanence enter your body – you can interpret those implications on your own 🙂
One of the many things I love about international travel are the people you meet. A major part of Argentinian/Tango Culture is the socialization – a wonderful meal, a glass of wine, great company and meaningful conversation, in the middle of the dance studio. With the pictures of the Tango greats on the walls and Tango orchestras playing in the background, this is not an experience to be forgotten. And, let me make this clear!! Alejandro Gee is a master instructor, but the man can also FLAT DOWN RIGHT COOK!! I was thoroughly impressed and this type of intimate exposure to Tango/Argentinian culture was soulfully touching!!
There is much more to share!! However, unlike many of my trips where I have kept up on my blog. This one I let sit for a bit….as I mentioned, this is more of a thinking trip….some would say: an anthropological exploration 🙂 I was deeply amazed and my thoughts are seriously provoked….more to come….
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